Purples and greens

This little house is a good one.  All neat, tidy, very Scottish.

Less than a block to royal Dornoch's first tee ( that's Mike walking w clubs to play golf.)

Lawn bowling club out our kitchen window, which evidently is a lively club for all ages here in Dornoch.

Hiked south shore of Loch Fleet, from ruins of Skelbo Castle to ruins of old ferry pier.  Three flat miles.  Hiked the land right along the waterline, just above it by 3 to 5 feet. Passed lots of livestock. Cows, sheep, horses. Some friendly. Some ignored us.

Don't you just love the SHEEP!

Huge amounts of shades of green in nature. Dark menacing green of gorse, light waving green of hay and grasses, all those greens in the trees. And in Scotland, the predominant vibrant color in nature is purple. Heather carpets of purple swath down the hills. Don't forget the thistle. People wear more purple here. Add the deep blue of water. Stones bring in light greys, taupes and soft yellows.

My it's a beautiful world.

Finished off with a return to Coffee Bothy in Golspie for lunch, and a piece of their just made Orkney Fudge Cheesecake. You see it hiding behind the carrot cake on the second shelf. Tony makes it so much better than I. What's his secret?

Bagpipes and Golspie's Big Burn

Saturday nights in Dornoch are Pipe and Drum band.
Who is there that doesn't love a bagpipe?
How about 20 bagpipes?

Then this morning we returned to Golspie's Big Burn walk. Look familiar Mack, Tray and Corey? An easy walk, 250 ft vertical and 2 miles horizontal. Many waterfalls, one massive one. Several ecosystems so diversity of flora. The trees have huge personalities. Hearing the massive waterfall as you approach, circle around to cross upstream, then walk down right next to the bottom welling. At this point, the waterfall is thunderous! Photo of Mike at end of wooden walk looking around corner at massive waterfall. And many photos of Mike up ahead. He is patient with me.

Lawn bowling right next door today. And a lovely garden planted across the street at the new hotel, The Links House.

Gushing about food.... yes Scottish food..

Rarely do I gush about food.
Well, not often do I gush about food.
BUT OH MY GOODNESS!

Tony cooked in the merchant marines, then in hotels in Switzerland, France and England. Having had enough of managing staff and creating for petulant hordes of eaters, he and his wife Liz purchased Grant's restaurant in Ratagan. They built out four small bedrooms. From Easter through mid October, they amaze four tables of appreciative folks every night. That's it.

On table - roasted mixed nuts, great olives. Three rolls - pink beet roll, caraway potato roll, millet and other whole grains roll.

Starter - Crispy sweet potato, halloumi and chick pea strudel with light curry sauce, toasted cashews and black sesame seeds, a bit of frisee

Main - Hoggit shank (which is an 18 month old lamb) with red wine sauce, and with clear mint sauce. served over fresh mint mashed potatoes. With tiny flowerettes of broccoli, green beans, cauliflower.

Dessert - Fresh ginger, pumpkin and orange sponge with rum and marmalade sauce and fresh raspberries and double cream. Mike had homemade cookies and pistachio ice cream.

Who would have thought all this from Ratagan, a town of 25 homes on the west coast of Scotland. So anticipating breakfast this morning, we had homemade yogurt, homemade muesli. Followed by toast with homemade jams - blueberry, plum, raspberry or marmalade. Oh, he grows his own plums of course. Then the best scrambled eggs w chives and local cheddar I have ever had.

That's it on the food. I just wanted all of you who wonder 'what in the world do people eat in Scotland?'  to have an answer.  Yes, he is in the Michelin guide.

Jumping to Whisky, I thought that Tony and Liz would be the perfect people to ask about Whisky. (The Scots do not put an E in the word.) As you know, Scotch is the blend. A Scot would only drink a single malt. And a Scot never adds water or ice. Maybe a tablespoon of water. No more.

Grant's had a lovely wine selection, and an 8 foot shelf of whiskies. They range (according to Liz) from 'antiseptic' which are the Spey ones to 'peaty' which are the islands ones. She recommended I try  the doublewooded Balvenie 12 years. I did. It was delicious. Added a little water. Now I have my drink for the vaca.

Lovely time chatting with fellow guest, from North Uist', Margaret. She has lectured at U of Michigan (a small world) on diabetes, cans her own rhubarb-candied ginger jam, would like to bury Denny Salmond alive herself (he's behind the vote on Scotland separating from UK), and travels with two Lhaso Apsos.  I love the Scots.

Expanding magical vistas on the drive across the Highlands from Ratagan to Dornoch. It feels so comfortable returning here. Tourist coaches in the Dornoch car park by the Cathedral, tourists ambling in and out. They all leave by 4. Two new shops open. Luigi's for a bowl of warm pancetta and pea soup. Now afternoon quiet time.

Wee burns, verdant, sculptural mountains... Balmacara, Ratagan Scotland

Our normal routine coming to Scotland. Easy after so many times. Relaxing even.
Packing light. Golf clubs, plus two suitcases. Nothing fancy goes on in Dornoch.

Eat a light dinner, then board plane for Glasgow. Wash face, brush teeth, put in earplugs, put on Bose head sets and eye patches. Take an Ambien. Tell stewardess one bottle of water, then no food or drinks until we land. Slept entire flight!

Upon landing, we get our bags, go to airport coffee shop for cappucinos, yogurt and croissant.

Then drive four hours to Balmacara Square, right near entrance to a myriad of walks by National Scottish Trust...  first lunch and COFFEE for me COKE for Mike at Beth's Coffee Shop ( thank you Tripadvisor). 

Then a lovely hike through pine forest, verdent green woods, over wee burns.  Passed by at the most photographed castle in Scotland, had to stop and take a photo! Eilen Donan. 

Nap time at B and B, dinner there, and phew! It's so comfortable being here in Scotland. Air fresh, visually cool and pleasing. People a bit eccentric but friendly and relaxed. Just love it. 

Sun Valley Sheep Dog Trials

Sun Valley.
Trailing of the Sheep Festival.
Sheep Dog Trials. Our dog Zorro didn't win, but we thought she looked fab!